Siri Wigdel

We set off from Jørpeland, saying our goodbyes to my childhood home, and mor’s lovely garden, which we have seen grow and mature over the years, with definite influences from her many visits to gardens in Wales and the UK, when she has been to stay with us. She is now ready to not have a garden, and is very happy with the large terrace at her new place. We persuaded her to take some cuttings of her favourite plants, to have in nice pots at her new residence in Sandnes.

We left her with a slightly emptier house and many boxes already packed, hoping the next few weeks will be easier with the big house move. I was keen to introduce Mr.Jones to a bit more winter (perhaps a bit silly since he was still full of Danish cold) but we were armed with thermals and new Jørpeland bargain ‘overtrekksbukser’, lined overtrousers, which could serve as skiing trousers if the chance presented itself.

The first hour of the drive towards the ferry at Hjelmeland was nice and gentle, and with the new tunnel at Tysdalsvatnet, slightly less scary, as you now don’t really see any of the big rock screes towering above you as you drive, with the lake falling steeply under you on the other side (perhaps one of the few drawbacks of driving in a British car, as the driver usually ends up on the far side near the big drops into lakes and fjords). 

I wanted to stop in Årdal to show Mr.Jones the beautiful old Årdal wooden church, whith its magnificent ornate paintings. As it was still not the season I was aware it may not be open on a weekday, but we were really lucky, as there was a worker there, looking at the alarm system, and he let us in to have a quick look. This old church is one of the best examples of a Renaissance church on the whole west coast of Norway. The decoration of the church walls was important for preaching in the Middle Ages and this continued even after the Reformation. Wall paintings were especially popular in the 17th century as a means of spreading the faith. The farms in the village had their own places to sit, with their names on the doors of the pews. The centre aisle is characterised by Renaissance carvings in the doors and panelling. The names of the Årdal farms are engraved in several of the doors, and sometimes the date too. People of the highest rank sat at the front (of course), farm labourers had no marked places and they sat at the back. More well off people used to pay for special chairs, and it was deemed prestigeous to be sat further to the front. Pews were first used from the 1630’s onwards. Although there is a newer church in Årdal today, this one is still used, especially for special occassions, such as traditional weddings and christenings.

After crossing the fjord at Hjelmeland, we started to see some snow in the Suldal mountains, and could feel the temperature dropping as we climbed higher. At Røldal I wanted to show Mr.Jones another spectacular church, the famous Røldal stavechurch, unfortunately not open this time of year, but still worth a visit, just to see the great timberworks on the outside. Dark tarred timbers, with a greenish/yellow door, an exciting colour combination. 

After countless tunnels, accompanied by our Leif Ove Andsnes CD of Grieg piano pieces, which fitted the landscape ever so well, we drove beyond the tree line and hit the Haukeli mountain plane, which is the same height as Snowdon. It started snowing and we had to get out to say hello to the walls of snow higher than the car. It makes you feel like a child full of marvel at nature and the elements. Brrr, and it was cold.